Paw Tips          
We have compiled some great tips for dog owners everywhere. Please understand there is not one solution for all dogs. You may have to experiment with a few different tips to find the one that fits your dogs behavior or condition. If anyone has a tip that they would like included in this section feel free to send it to us for review.
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In this section we will be providing you with tips that will help benefit the canine community and help you to help your dog live a happy wonderful life.
   Paw Tip # 1
Spay/Neuter
If you are not a breeder please spay or neuter your dog. Not only is it much healthier for your dog but it also helps to stop the overpopulation of unwanted dogs and strays. An un-neutered male dog has a much higher chance or prostate issues if he is not neutered and a unsprayed female is more likely to develop mammary cancer or pyometra which is an infection of the uterus. Many litters of puppies end up in shelters because the owner cannot sell them or they are rescued off the streets. To stop animal cruelty please spay or neuter your dog. There are many low cost spay and neuter clinic across the nation. Contact your local shelter to find one near you.
Paw Tip # 2
Doggie daycare/Dog Boarding
Doggie daycare is a wonderful way to let your dog have fun, socialize, burn steam, and just be a dog all while being supervised. Here are a few things to do when looking for a doggie daycare that will fit into your lifestyle. Make sure the facility is licensed by the city and state and are fully insured. All dogs entering daycare or boarding should be fully vaccinated and also have the bordatella which helps prevent kennel cough (an upper respiratory infection). Make appointments at the interested facilities and take a tour with your dog. You want to see how the staff is with your dog and you want to watch your dogs reactions while there. Make sure the facility is clean, has adequate outdoor space and does not smell. Ask how they introduce a new dog, do they separate small from big, how much outdoor time, and how much rest do they get. Ask the facility if something happens while their dog is there what steps do they take to ensure the dogs proper care and how close the veterinarian is. Boarding is much the same but sometimes a boarding dog will not be part of daycare because they are less socialized but that shouldn’t mean that they don’t get as much time outdoors or love from the staff. Most importantly you as a dog owner need to feel comfortable with the facility you chose. Always sign a contract and have a copy made for yourself.
Paw Tip # 3
Vacationing with your dog
Vacationing with your dog
Are you planning a vacation and want to bring your best bud with, well there are a few things to consider before anything. First make sure your breed is well equipped for the task at hand. You don’t want to bring a bulldog or a shitzu on a hike or a Great Dane out fishing. Know what your dog can handle and the conditions you will be entering heat, humidity or extreme cold. Every breed has its own tolerance level. Make sure your dog gets along well with people, children and other dogs. If you are camping check with the campgrounds rules and regulations or if staying in a hotel call ahead and make sure they accept dogs. Bring a copy of your dog’s current vaccinations with incase a police officer needs to see them and check the area for veterinarians and emergency hospitals. If an accident happens you don’t want to be frantically looking for an emergency vet you want to have that address and phone number readily available. Bring plenty of food, water, bedding to cover the whole trip and more. Vacationing with your dog can be a great experience for the whole family but make sure the whole trip is planned out for you and your dog.

There are many books dedicated to vacationing with your pet it wouldn’t hurt to get one of these books and read up. They provide you with ideas, hotels, and local veterinarians.
   Paw Tip # 4
Introducing your dog to a new dog
You always want to introduce a new dog to your current dog while on neutral ground that means not your home. Your current dog may feel intimidated and try to protect his home from the new dog so the best bet is take your current dog for a quick walk and have someone bring the other dog to you and then head home. If the dogs are getting along stop on the front lawn or out in front of your home/apartment/condo and talk for a bit once comfortable move indoors and watch the dogs if they are getting along take the leashes off and let them go. If there is tension or growling the two dogs may not be a good fit or a slower introduction is needed and also possibly and obedience trainer to help with aggression. Remember not all dogs get along right away. You may need to keep the new dog separated from your current dog for a short time until they get used to each other but again if there is too much aggression seek the advice of a professional.
Paw Tip # 5
Dog Parks
Dog Parks are popping up all over the U.S. and are integral part of some dogs lives. Dog parks are wonderful for dogs who don’t have a fenced yard or that live in the city. The first thing to do is check your local dog park to see if they require a license. By obtaining a license the city checks for vaccinations and spay/neutering and there is usually a small fee to acquire this license. All dogs that belong to the dog park should be well socialized as there are large groups of unleashed dogs in an area sometimes exceeding one acre. If you are unsure of your dogs behavior please have them evaluated by a dog trainer to be safe. Start by visiting the dog park without yourdog at different times and see when their busiest and slowest times are. Bring your dog to the park on the slowest day so they can get used to the surroundings and then leave on a good note. The next time bring them on the slowest day and let them get used to a small amount of dogs and watch their behavior. Then continue for a short time bringing them on the slow days until you think they are ready for an action packed day. Always keep an eye on your dog they can fight over the smallest things. Dog parks are wonderful for some dogs but they are not for all dogs.
Paw Tip # 6
Dogs left in cars
We strongly encourage you to never leave your dog alone in your car during harsh weather. This could be extreme heat or cold. If the weather is comfortable and you would stay in your car with a window cracked then it is ok for your dog. Dogs have feelings and they know pain and suffering so please do not let your dog suffer in inclement weather. In the summer the heat in your car climbs rapidly. The inside of your car can easily reach temperatures in excess of 130 degrees in a short amount of time. A dog cannot take this kind of temperatures so please keep your pet at home if there is a chance you might have to leave them unattended. If you suspect your dog has heat exhaustion please take them to a veterinarian immediately.
Paw Tip # 7
If your dog gets away from you!
If your dog gets away from you and heads down the block do not get angry with him, do not hit him, do not yell at him or your dog will never want to come to you when called for fear of being punished. Once you catch him merely bring him home and start working on the come, wait and stay commands.
Paw Tip # 8
People foods to avoid feeding your pets ASPCA.
All the foods on this list sound wonderful to us but they can actually be very dangerous to our pets. If you suspect your pet has eaten any of the following foods, please not the amount and call your local veterinarian or the Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-426-4435.

Chocolate/coffee/caffeine-these products can contain methylxanthines, which are found in cacao seeds, the fruit of the plant used to make coffee and in the nuts of an extract used in some sodas. When ingested by pets, methylxanthines can cause vomiting and diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst and urination, hyperactivity, abnormal heart rhythms, tremors, seizures and even death. Note that darker chocolate is more dangerous than milk chocolate. White chocolate has the lowest level of metrylxanthines, while baking chocolate contains the highest.

Alcoholic beverages and food products containing alcohol can cause vomiting, diarrhea, decreased coordination, central nervous system depression, difficulty breathing, tremors, abnormal blood acidity, coma and even death.

Avocado-The leaves, fruit, seeds and bark of avocados contain Persin, which can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs.

Macadamia Nuts-are commonly used in many cookies and candies. However, they can cause problems for your canine companion. These nuts have caused weakness, depression, vomiting, tremors and hypertension in dogs. Signs usually appear within 12 hours of ingestion and last approximately 12-48 hours.

Grapes/raisans-Although the toxic substance within grapes and raisans is unknown, these fruits can cause kidley failure. In pets who already have certain health problems signs may be more dramatic. Yeast dough-can raise and cause gas to accumulate in your pets digestive system. Xylitol-is used as a sweetener in many products including gum, candy, baked goods, and toothpaste. It can cause insulin release in most species which can lead to liver failure.

The increase in insulin leads to hypoglycemia(lowered Sugar levels). Initial signs of toxicosis include vomiting, lethargy and loss of coordination. Signs can progress to recumbancy and seizures. Elevated liver enzymes and liver failure can be seen within a few days.

Onions/garlic/chives-these vegetables and herbs can cause gastrointestinal irritation and could lead to red blood cell damage.

Milk-pets do not process significant amounts of lactose (the enzyme that breaks down lactose in milk) milk and other milk-based products and can cause them to have diarrhea or other digestive upset.

Salt-large amounts of salt can produce excessive thirst and urination, or even sodium ion poisoning in pets. Signs that your pet may have eaten too many salty foods include vomiting, diarrhea, depression, tremors, elevated temperature, seizures and even death. In other words keep those salty chips to yourself.

  Ooh no, my dog has fleas. What should I do?  
THE LIFE CYCLE OF THE FLEA
The flea is a blood-feeding parasite which can be transferred from host to host. However, once a host is located, the flea prefers to remain on that host until it is dislodged or dies.

Adult fleas have an exoskeleton. They do not have wings and their body is compressed laterally (vertically). Their eyes are very simple, and they have piercing, sucking mouthparts. Fleas as a group are cosmopolitan, and have been found everywhere in the world except the southern-polar cap. They are active and reproduce year-round (contrary to popular belief) but all life processes are slowed by various degrees of cold weather.

In addition to fleas biting the pets (and often people), they can also cause several related medical problems. Flea Allergy; both dogs and cats can be allergic to certain toxins in the flea's saliva. This reaction is usually characterized by intense itching, chewing and scratching on their rear legs, tail, and upper back area. One flea bite can cause allergic reactions in sensitive animals for up to two weeks, regardless of whether a flea is still present. Any animal with hair loss should be seen by a veterinarian to determine the cause. (also known as flea bit dermatitis).

Tape Worms: Tapeworms are intern parasites of both dogs and cats, for which the flea is the intermediate host. This means that the only infectious stage of the tapeworm is the larval stage inside the infected flea, i.e., fleas can be carriers of tapeworms. Tapeworms are usually identified by the owner as white worm segments, about the size of a grain of rice, that are stuck on the fur of the animal or that have dried up and fallen on bedding, etc. Pets can only become infected with tapeworms by chewing on and swallowing the worm segment. Once again, a veterinarian should be consulted for diagnosis and de-worming, but prevention of further tapeworm infection can only be accomplished by flea control.


THE FOUR STAGES OF THE FLEA LIFE CYCLE


FLEA EGGS
* The flea egg represents approximately 34% of the total flea population at any given time.

* They are smooth, oval, pearlescent, approximately 0.5 mm or 1/64 of an inch long, and are visible to the naked eye (a little smaller than a grain of sand).

* They hatch in 1.5 to 6 days, depending on temperature and humidity.

* Eggs are generally concentrated in area frequented by pets; i.e. bedding, dog houses, favorite resting area, etc., but can be deposited anywhere the pet has been.

FLEA LARVAE
* The larvae account for approximately for 57% of the flea population at any given time.

* The larvae emerge from the egg using a special "egg-buster" spine on the head. The spine is lost during the first larval molt.

* They are legless, whitish and maggot-like in appearance, having a single row of bristles on each side. They are about 3 mm long or 1/32 to 5/32 of an inch long, and are very active, using the bristles to move.

* The larvae molt through three larval instars, lasting from 6-36 days, depending on temperature and humidity. Each instar is slightly longer than the last.

* They are very susceptible to humidity, with low humidity being detrimental to the larval.

* They feed primarily on adult flea excrement, which is more less dried blood from feeding on the host. This is often called "flea dirt", and is often mistaken for flea larvae or eggs. This is the dark specks that is seen on the animal or left behind where an infested animal lays. The larvae need this in order to survive.

* Although very active, larvae do not range far from the area in which the larvae hatch.

* Larvae are negatively phototactic, which means they avoid sunlight, hence they are more likely to be found in dark, shaded, or protected places.

* Larvae will be mainly found in the pet's favorite resting areas.

PUPA (COCOON)
* Accounts for approximately 8% of the flea population.

* Larvae form cocoons by secreting a stick substance and incorporating debris from surrounding areas for camouflage.

* The cocoon provides a protective barrier which makes it resistant to chemicals and pesticides.

* Pupa progress from larval form to a recognizable flea inside the cocoon.

* Development takes place in about 7-10 days; however, the cocoon will lie dormant in the environment until the outside temperature and humidity is high enough, and it senses a certain degree of vibration. A passing host subjects enough vibration for the cocoon to hatch.

* Cocoons may remain dormant over years if they are not stimulated to hatch. This accounts for the "VACATION SYNDROME", when people and pets return to the home the vibrations begin immediately which can start a massive wave of flea emergence.

ADULT FLEAS
* Adult fleas only account for approximately 1% of the total flea population.

* Newly emerged fleas (from the cocoon) are often mistaken for "baby fleas" because they are very small, dark (almost black), and flat. These are merely new adults that have not yet taken a blood meal.

* Adults are wingless and range from 1/32 to 1/8 of an inch in length. They are black to brownish-black in color.

* After locating a host and feeding, the fleas "plump up" and turn a reddish-brown color, and are then recognized by most owner as a flea.

* Adults are stimulated to emerge from cocoons by vibration and changes in temperature. Daily vacuuming is recommended, discarding the bag after each use.

* Under normal circumstances the adults emerge from the cocoons in 7-10 days.

* Visual and heat stimuli are primary modes that attract adult fleas to host; carbon dioxide causes random jumping and is a minor mode of host-seeking

* Once they locate a host, fleas will feed, mate, lay eggs and spend over 90% of their lives on the host, unless dislodged.

* After emerging from cocoons, adults can live up to two years without a blood meal if they have not yet fed; feeding on flea feces, fungus, and skin dander.

* Once a blood meal is taken, the adults must feed at least every 4-6 hours.

* Feeding periods are from 4-7 minutes in duration.

* Egg production begins 2 days following the first blood meal, with the greatest number of eggs being produced on the sixth or seventh day after the first blood meal.

* Average eggs laid per day is 31-46; average number in female lifetime is 300-800.

* Average life span on host is about 12 days, with accounts of up to 113 days. If fleas are seen continuously on pet, this is evidence of re-infestation of new adults.

* Fleas jump on a average of 9-15 inches high.

FLEA CONTROL METHODS
Indoor Treatment:
The number of individual treatments necessary will depend upon the degree of infestation and the thoroughness of each treatment. A mild infestation may only require one treatment, whereas, a medium to heavy infestation may require several.

Vacuum all floors, carpets, baseboards, pet bedding and furniture (especially between the cushions and the floor underneath). Vacuuming not only removes a percentage of fleas and eggs, but it also stimulates the cocoons to hatch. Vacuum prior to treatment and resume vacuuming 24 hours after treatment. Recent research indicates that daily vacuuming for two to three weeks after treatment will expedite the elimination of fleas. Either discard the vacuum bag after each use. For flea-control on hardwood floors, begin with vacuuming the floors and baseboards, then spray the floor including all cracks, crevices and baseboards.

Foggers are not 100% effective because the fog will not reach underneath large pieces of furniture i.e., sofas, beds, tables, etc. To obtain 100 % coverage it is better to spray as set out below.

The first treatment should include a spray with a quick knockdown insecticide such as Permethrin mixed with a FGR (Flea Growth Regulator), such as FleaFix Wait 24 hours to begin daily vacuuming. The growth regulator will take about three weeks to gain control of the eggs. Some adults will hatch during this period because the FGR will inhibit the development of the eggs and larvae, and the insecticide will kill the adults. The cocoons remain unaffected and will eventually hatch within 5-10 days under normal circumstances. The cocoons require humidity, warmth and vibration in order to hatch. When the cocoons hatch, the adult fleas emerge, which requires another treatment of insecticide to eliminate the newly-hatched fleas. This is the reason for additional treatments. re-spraying with Permethrin will get rid of the new hatchlings but if you don't want to re-spray the growth inhibitor will stop ant further eggs from hatching. Continue daily vacuuming for about two to three weeks. A mild infestation may not require repeat treatments.

Outdoor Treatment:
To control fleas outdoors, spray the Permethrin, in the areas where the pet spends the majority of time i.e., kennels, runs, beds fence lines, along sidewalks and driveways, underneath decks, and areas adjacent to foundations, etc. A repeat treatment may be necessary after four weeks.
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